CENTRAL WHIRINAKI HUT

VIA THE MANGAMATE LOOP TRACK

An easy overnighter in the majestic old growth Whirinaki Forest

Aotearoa has gradually lost much of the old growth forests that once covered much of both the North and South Island. There are some pockets of relatively undisturbed old growth forests however and not far from Rotorua lies the impressive Whirinaki Forest Park. This is predominantly a forest walk, mainly under an incredible forest canopy- think gigantic podocarp trees with moss covering much of the forest floor. It’s a relatively easy affair and an excellent place to do an overnight trip for those wanting a quick weekend retreat into nature.

Summary

Time to complete

2 Days

Accommodation style

Back-country hut, Camping

Track type

Out and back

Distance

32km

Difficulty

Easy

Bookings required

None

Highlights

Walk through an incredible old-growth forest
Plenty of birdlife including the rare Whio (Blue duck)
Flexible - options for shorter or longer walks
A great quality track suitable for most
Spend the night in a typical serviced backcountry hut

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Track info

Trip Guide

Gallery

All about the trail

The Whirinaki Te Pua-a-Tāne Conservation Park (Formerly Whirinaki Forest Park) offers a rare glimpse into what forests throughout the North Island were like prior to the extensive land clearing and logging operations of the Maori and subsequent European populations. Activism in the 1970’s saved this Forest Park from the sawmill and a network of walking trails and huts are present throughout. It’s really quite a special spot and I am grateful for the conservation efforts that were undertaken to preserve beautiful old growth forests like these.

This isn’t an alpine track with extensive views for miles on end. There are other tracks in the nearby Tongariro National Park and Kaimanawa Forest Park that are better for this kind of terrain. This track instead is spent mostly under tree cover- winding it’s way up the valley alongside the Whirinaki River. The forests canopy’s are truely incredible and rival any great walk I’ve been on with gigantic Podocarp trees towering above and a vibrant forest floor. What surprised me was that there is more birdlife on this trail than what would usually be encountered on other trails I’ve been to in the North Island. You are almost guaranteed to see the elusive Blue Duck, which spends it’s entire life on fast moving mountain rivers (a pair even came right up to my brother when he was dipping his sore feet in the river!). But in addition to this, we saw quite a few North Island Robins, Tomtits, heard some Kaka and saw plenty of other more common birds. There were mushrooms aplenty throughout too given we did the hike during Autumn. Overall it’s a great weekend destination or forest bathing getaway and I’ve thoroughly enjoyed the two trips I have done here.

Track condition
-Good condition with easy hiking most of the track.

Optionals
-For more experienced hikers, the entire Mangamate Loop can be hiked instead of returning via the same track. This involves a lot of stream walking and increases the track difficulty to moderate. A 2 or 3-day loop can be undertaken if you complete the loop this way.

Getting there

The track is an out and back track, so it finishes where it starts. There are shuttle companies operating to the trailhead, although it is possible to use a standard 2WD car to get to the trailhead.

Trail start location: Whirinaki Forest Carpark

Sleep

-Huts:

The hut is a standard serviced backcountry hut with slightly old facilities. Running water inside the hut in the warm months, long drop toilet, and a large dining/kitchen area.

-Camping:

Only possible at the hut and Vern’s camp on the way.

-Booking:

Bookings not required.

-Back-country hut pass:

Can be used.

What To Take

As with the rest of the mountainous terrain in the North Island, the weather here can be unprodicatable. Therefore even with a favourable forecast, plan for things to deteriorate just in case. Wet weather gear and warm layers are a must all year round.

Summer | Example packing list

Spring + Autnum | Example packing list

Winter Hiking

Parts of the track can be prone to brief icy/snowy conditions during cold periods over winter, however conditions are still likely safe even in these conditions. Check with the Rotorua DOC office before heading to the trail.

Website And Other Links

Department of conservation website | Minginui Stream Weather

Elevation Profile

Trip Guide

Day 1 | Whirinaki Forest Carpark - Central Whirinaki Hut

16km | 4-5 hours

2-2.5hr | 8km Verns Camp
The track starts off with an easy stroll downhill to the famous basalt column canyon. From here the track continues up the valley under impressive podocarp canopies, roughly matching the incline of the river with some small uphill sections throughout. Eventually Vern’s camp is met which is a great spot for lunch and a toilet break.

2-2.5hr | 8km Central Whirinaki Hut
From here the track can get a bit more narrow at times, but still passes through lovely forests the entire way and gets a lot closer to the river. This hut can fill up as it is used for multiple tracks, so larger parties are advised to bring some inflatable mattresses during busy summer weekends.

Side trips:
-There is a waterfall side trip that is not to be missed, follow the sign for a quick 5 min detour about 1.5hrs into the trail
-If you carry on walking past Central Whirinaki Hut, there is a cave and swing bridge about an hour after the hut which are interesting to check out if you have time/energy

Day 2 | Central Whirinaki Hut - Whirinaki Forest Carpark

13.8km | 5-6 hours

4-5hr | 16km Return to carpark
Return back the same way as day 1. When you get back to the waterfall seen on day 1, there is an alternate track back to the carpark. This track isn’t kept in as good condition as the main trail, but it’s nice to walk some new terrain and it’s still fairly easy.

Optional:
Continue around the Mangamate Loop for a long second day on moderate terrain. Not advisable during heavy rain.